Hey Larry this one is for you. Many others I'm sure are wondering the same thing as well. The question here is whether or not to use fertilizer on seedlings and when and also what is the best kind of soil to use for re-potting from peat pellets.
I also start my seeds in peat but many say potting soil is better. In my experience, I disagree. If you are going to re-pot then peat is a good starting medium. When you go to re-pot into larger containers, I would switch to a well balanced nutrient rich potting soil for vegetables. This will ensure you have the correct amount of nutrients for your seedlings to grow.
As far as using fertilizer, I have never used it on seedlings. My advice is to not use any until your plants are hardened off and planted in the garden. Young seedlings are very delicate and the fertilizer can potentially burn them in a way and end up hurting them. There are many kinds of potting soils out there with low doses of fertilizer mixed in which will provide enough during that critical growing time. At the same time though fertilizer is meant to promote either blossoms or better fruit. Applying fertilizer to a seedling could make the plant become spindly and lanky. This is something we do not want our seedlings to do.
My advice is to wait on the fertilizer until your can move things outside. This will ensure your plants are ready for the doses you are about to apply.
Hope this helps, let me know if you need any clearification.
Monday, February 15, 2010
Friday, February 12, 2010
Plant Spacing
Plant spacing is an essential part to planning your garden for the upcoming season. There are some tips and secrets you might not know and are worth a try.
Most vegetable plants have requirements and recommendations for spacing right on the package. For many of you, just like me, I can bet are trying to maximize space to fit more into your garden. Here are my tips and secrets.
For larger plant types such as tomato and pepper plants, I space each plant 1 foot apart and rows 2 feet apart. After 3 rows, I leave a space large enough for me to walk down making it easy to reach all the plants for harvest. This essetially makes a block of three rows. Try to keep varieties together so you don't get confused. This method works well for me and provides maximum space and pollination. Some people say every plant can self pollinate which is true but I find with the plants closer together, they produce more. Just remember to not plant too close or competition will occur.
For small bush plants such as beans and peas (bush or pole), spacing is quite different. I space my beans and peas 3 inches apart and keep the weeds down as much as possible. For some reason, beans and peas attract the most weeds in my garden. I plant the rows 1 foot apart so i can stradle a row to pick. Here you don't need to leave a larger space since you can walk over the plants without damaging them.
For head crops such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, I recommend lots of space. These crops require alot more nutrients for large growth. Stick to the recommended spacing on the package.
For root crops such and radishes, onions, and carrots, spacing is much like the beans. These can be planted in rows and then thinned to 2 inches between each plant. For carrots, you must have at least 12 inches of deeply loosened soil for them to grow straight and large. For radishes, you must stay on top of them. Most only require 24-30 days to harvest and can become spongy and pithy fast.
These are the basic crops for a beginners garden and my tips and secrets for such crops. I plant all these in my garden every year with these methods and have great success.
Most vegetable plants have requirements and recommendations for spacing right on the package. For many of you, just like me, I can bet are trying to maximize space to fit more into your garden. Here are my tips and secrets.
For larger plant types such as tomato and pepper plants, I space each plant 1 foot apart and rows 2 feet apart. After 3 rows, I leave a space large enough for me to walk down making it easy to reach all the plants for harvest. This essetially makes a block of three rows. Try to keep varieties together so you don't get confused. This method works well for me and provides maximum space and pollination. Some people say every plant can self pollinate which is true but I find with the plants closer together, they produce more. Just remember to not plant too close or competition will occur.
For small bush plants such as beans and peas (bush or pole), spacing is quite different. I space my beans and peas 3 inches apart and keep the weeds down as much as possible. For some reason, beans and peas attract the most weeds in my garden. I plant the rows 1 foot apart so i can stradle a row to pick. Here you don't need to leave a larger space since you can walk over the plants without damaging them.
For head crops such as broccoli, cauliflower, and cabbage, I recommend lots of space. These crops require alot more nutrients for large growth. Stick to the recommended spacing on the package.
For root crops such and radishes, onions, and carrots, spacing is much like the beans. These can be planted in rows and then thinned to 2 inches between each plant. For carrots, you must have at least 12 inches of deeply loosened soil for them to grow straight and large. For radishes, you must stay on top of them. Most only require 24-30 days to harvest and can become spongy and pithy fast.
These are the basic crops for a beginners garden and my tips and secrets for such crops. I plant all these in my garden every year with these methods and have great success.
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